Weekly Musings

2018 - Week Thirty

'She had that whiskey sipping skinny dipping smile.'

(Atticus)

I am writing this from New York in a very sorry state after a crazy few days with my boys Luke and Rollie in Washington D.C. The week started, however, with a flight from Toronto to Boston, where I checked into my first ever hostel experience at HI (Hostelling International). It was in an ideal location right next to the subway station in China Town, half an hour from the airport and a short walking distance to Boston Common.

First impressions exceeded expectations. It had a swanky coffee shop on the ground level, then on the floors above it were a huge games room and chill out area, well equipped kitchen and then the guest bedrooms. I was sharing a mixed sex dorm with five others, all of whom were students so they left early each morning and didn't return until tea time which was perfect for me. Everywhere was clean, staff were friendly, and the sleeping areas were laid out in long thin rooms which was a nice touch to add some privacy when in bed. The bathrooms were also in the form of private cubicles, which I much preferred to the open plan leisure centre style bathrooms that I encountered in later hostels. 

I had heard good things about a trendy seafood bar called Saltie Girl on Newbury Street which is my favourite area of the city, so I walked there that evening. It had an hour wait, so I put my name down and went for a wander. When the time came I took a pew at the bar as it is one of those joints where you order as you go along. I had a glass of wine and the snow crab roll, which in my travel weary state I totally didn't clock was sushi (despite having this roll in other places before) so when it turned up my super hungry brain was not best pleased, especially at its $24 price tag! It was very tasty though, and I took it as an omen to go across the road to Thinking Cup for a Boston creme pie for dessert rather than order more food there. 

I sampled my first free hostel breakfast the next morning. It was buffet style, with bagels, condiments, juice, cereal, hot drinks, yoghurt and fruit available, such a bonus to be able to fill up for the start of the day to save a bit of cash. That morning I was doing a 3 hour Freedom Trail tour, with a very eccentric Bostonian guide. It was really informative and showed me areas of the city that I'd not seen before despite a 3 week trip previously. It finished right near Quincy Market which again I hadn't visited so I grabbed some Greek food from its huge hall and sat in nearby Christopher Columbus Park to eat it, watching the marina and dozing in the sunshine.

On my walk back to the subway I bumped into a guy called Drew who stopped me and asked if he could take some pictures of me as he was into photography and he 'liked my style'. I was a little dubious at first, but after chatting for a while he seemed legit so I thought why the hell not. He got some pictures of me (that I actually like) at various points around the area, and even bought me a drink as a thankyou at the end before he went on his way. Not all randomers are creeps it would seem! 

On Wednesday I caught the train to Providence to meet up with my buddy Nilton. In the morning I treated myself to a proper American breakfast at the South Street Diner, which I had found on Trip Advisor and realised upon arrival that Aum and I had been to a few years ago. It is a very basic joint (when I asked for a skinny latte the waitress blinked and said they only did filter coffee with whole milk!) but the food is out of this world, and my huge dish and drink was only just over ten dollars. I had the Boston Creme Pie pancakes; a stack of 3 fluffy pancakes the size of my face smothered in chocolate sauce and rich custardy cream, I could barely move afterwards. I still had ample time before my eleven o’clock  train, but it arrived early so I could board and get onto the free wifi.

Nilton met me at the train station and after stopping by his lovely apartment we drove for lunch at a restaurant called The Salted Slate. It was pretty high-end, although we waited for ages for our food. I ordered a glass of wine and a jumbo shrimp Caesar salad which was gorgeous, and we caught up on what we had both been upto for the past two years! We dropped the car back home and walked into town, picking up a lavender coffee from a cafe called Dave's on the way. He showed me all around the town of Providence, which has some cool bits of history as well as great shops and a trendy riverside area. For tea we grabbed Mexican food from California Taco and then I caught the train back, shattered after such a jam packed day!

On Thursday I was up and checked out of the hostel early, to prepare for my flight to Washington D.C at 1pm. I had another slight delay (yet to have an internal flight on time) but the subway system was the easiest yet to use so I was at my hostel, another H.I, in decent time. This was slightly more the type of thing I had imagined a hostel to be, a twelve person bunk bed dorm that was very prison chic, with scratchy blankets, bashed old lockers, communal shower rooms with weathered curtains for privacy and a rather pungent smell! However, I didn’t actually stay there all that much in the end, so it didn’t have a great impact on my stay.

I dumped my bags and wandered around until I found a cool bar called Pennsylvania 6, that had an outdoor area facing the park perfect for a bite to eat and a couple of ciders in the scorching sunshine. That evening I went to a Japanese ramen bar called Daikaya Izkaya that I had seen recommended on Alice Levine’s Instagram and as it was in my neighbourhood I thought I’d give it a try. The vegetable option was the most delicious ramen I have ever had and as it is set out communal bench style (a la Wagamama) I chatted to another solo traveller for the duration of my meal which I thoroughly enjoyed. I also got to soak up the atmosphere in the bar above beforehand whilst waiting for my table; a sultry den with pirate vibes serving quirky cocktails and unusual beers; I tried a cherry one and wasn’t disappointed. I headed back to the hostel for some sleep afterwards, knowing I had a busy weekend of partying ahead!

On Friday I wasn't meeting the boys until 4.30pm, so after breakfast at the hostel I tried to pack in as many monuments as I could beforehand. I visited the National Archives, United States Capitol, and the Supreme Court from the outside to take a picture and ventured inside the Smithonian Museum of Natural History which was incredible! I love a good museum and this was up there with some of the best I have visited, full of interactive displays, ancient artifacts and even an aquarium with penguins.

I caught the subway to The Intercontinental on the Wharf where the lads were staying, and as I arrived early I went to a funky dessert bar nearby called Milk where I had a 'Crack Pie Milkquake' - basically ice cream made from cereal milk with bits of cookiedough, caramel and pretzel in, it was to die for! Afterwards we chilled at the rooftop bar in the hotel having a couple of cocktails (strawberry margaritas) before sprucing ourselves up and heading to the in-house restaurant Kith and Kin for tea where I shared the lobster and crab slider and then had spicy shrimp with rice and brioche for main.

We were in a bit of a rush as we were going to a Sofar Sounds gig, but we just had time to grab some booze before jumping in a taxi to watch three really talented acts - Neffy, Rorie and Ryan Johnson. We then made our way to the lively area of the city and ended up in a dive bar called The Codmother which was churning out the old school tunes including the classic above; multiple tequilas mean it all goes a bit blurry from there!!

The next day I felt like absolute garbage! Luke and I went for an early morning swim (Rollie was entertaining a lady friend!) to try and shake off the cobwebs before we got changed and went to Del Mar next door for brunch and a much needed hair of the dog bloody Mary. I had a tasty dish of poached eggs with baked aubergine, tomato, courgette and manchego cheese which really hit the spot, and then I toddled off back to the hostel for a couple of hours kip before doing it all again!

The second night out was a bit more reserved to begin with, as I hadn't fully recovered, but after forcing a couple of ciders down me in a rooftop bar called 801 I gained a second wind and we met up with some of Luke and Rollie's friends from back in Raleigh where they live who were in the city for the weekend. They recommended a club called Decades which was as stereotypically American as you can imagine - dance offs, neon lights and bottles being paraded around with sparklers in, but it was a laugh and fun to mix with some new people.

Today has been a struggle! I felt relatively perky when I left the boys' hotel this morning, but after packing up my bag and checking out my energy slumped. I crawled my way to a vegan fast food place called Hip City Veg for a Kale lemonade and chicken nuggets with sweet potato fries which was exactly what the doctor ordered, and am now tucked up in my third hostel bed of the trip in New York, admitting defeat - I can't do two big nights in a row anymore!

Weekly Musings

2018 - Week Twenty Nine

'Sometimes we are so generous with our love, so willing to give it all away, that we leave nothing behind for ourselves.'

(Michael Faudet)

This was my first full week travelling solo. It has been such a cool experience to have the freedom that comes with no agenda to follow and no time restrictions; I have thoroughly enjoyed chilling out, taking in the sights and basically doing whatever the hell I want! On Monday after a lie in I braved catching a bus to meet a girl who sold me her Lollapalooza ticket (all legit don't worry) which I was really grateful for as I just missed out on buying one before they sold out. Unfortunately for me the heavens opened shortly afterwards and I had to jump in an Uber home as I was wearing a very unrainworthy jumpsuit!

After sheltering back at home catching up on Love Island, in the early evening I walked around the corner to the main Wicker Park shopping area for a browse in the boutiques and quirky bookshops. I managed to pick up a collection of John Donne poetry, a sheet of parchment with circus style typography on for my new bedroom, and an incredible vintage jumpsuit that is a cross between Michael Jackson in Thriller,  and a mechanics overalls! That evening I made myself a jackfruit salad, and watched a few episodes of the latest season of The Affair, one of my favourite dramas.

On Tuesday I had a tattoo consult at Revolution Tattoo. Cassandra, the artist doing my piece had drawn up exactly what I wanted based on our email conversations from back home, which made me mega excited to get inked. Afterwards I walked the 606; an elevated 2.7 mile path along a disused railway line that has been transformed into a trail perfect for views of the area, showcasing some amazing graffiti from local artists, and lots of urban architecture. It is similar to New York's High Line, and is actually the longest linear park in the western hemisphere. That evening I rewarded my effort with a few glasses of prosecco on the rooftop at The Beach House Social whilst doing some life admin and tapping my feet to their music playlist (see my track of the week above). I'm definitely getting used to this solo drinking malarkey!

Wednesday was a busy day. I started early with a 'pay what you feel' walking tour around the Loop, including the theatre district, the underground pedway system, and Millennium Park, finishing at the infamous Cloud Gate, a huge mirrored structure known as 'The Bean' that is an artistic gem in downtown Chicago. I then had my tattoo done! It is inspired by Lewis Carroll's Alice in Wonderland illustrations, as he is one of my favourite authors, and I was also frequently told I resembled her as a child.

That evening I took Aum out of his camp so we could go for tea together before I took off on my travels. We chose Niu Japanese Lounge, a sushi restaurant that was to die for. The 'Summer in Shanghai' cocktail I had (raspberry & lychee-infused vodka, St. Germain, creme yvette, lychee & lime juice) was a little strong - it is not often I say that! - but the selection of sushi we ordered was divine. We chose a few classic faves such as the crunch roll and salmon sashimi, as well as sampling some newbies. Aum insisted we try the uni (sea urchin) as apparently it is the Marmite of the sushi world; I can safely say I am in the enemy camp, it was VILE!

On Thursday I wanted a chilled day before moving on to the next city, so went to the beach for a few hours of lounging around. I felt like a naughty schoolgirl as I took a water bottle with some white wine in to enjoy whilst I sunbathed - it needed drinking before I left Chicago! I followed this with a spot of shopping on The Magnificent Mile, but it is the high end fashion district so sadly everything was well out of my price range.

On Friday I checked out of the apartment at midday. The owners kindly let me leave a large suitcase with the remainder of my belongings in their care until I return in ten days, as I am doing all my internal flights on hand luggage to save some money. I killed a few hours before my flight to Toronto in a couple of lovely coffee shops: Wormhole Coffee which is '80s themed and has a Back to the Future style car hanging from one wall, and Fairground's Coffee, a small cafe chain that felt like a hub for creatives and those working remotely, very cosy and inviting. I arrived in Toronto at gone midnight after a slight delay, so flopped into bed when I made it to my air b&b.

Yesterday morning I dragged myself up despite being shattered to go on the first of two tours I had arranged. It started at 10.30am from the central train station and as I had managed to navigate my way from the airport using public transport, I felt quietly confident getting there via the old-school streetcar system available. The tour guide took us all around downtown, showing us some beautiful buildings, the CN Tower, Yonge-Dundas Square (Toronto's Times Square) the financial district, and ending at the huge Toronto sign in Nathan Phillips Square. 

As I hadn't eaten thus far, I walked to Kensington Market and had an omelette accompanied by an apple cocktail for lunch at a place called Bacon Nation (plenty of veggie options despite the name). It was a fair walk, but I had been recommended to go to the market, which is near China Town, so thought I'd tie in getting a bite to eat. Stuffed from the food, I took my time wandering around some shops, stopping for a coffee break before I went on my second tour of the day.

 It was a graffiti themed one, which Toronto is well known for. We were told about the different types of graffiti, some of the artists recognised for their work in the area, and taken down the famous graffiti alley, which was stunning. There were so many eye-catching murals, I took far too many photos! The lack of sleep the previous night began to catch up with me mid-afternoon, so I went back to the apartment to relax and have a cuppa before venturing out again in the evening.

One of my friends who did a uni sandwich year in Toronto had told me to make the effort to go across to the islands whilst I was visiting, so that was my night destination. I took the ferry to the main island which was quick and cheap, and once off I walked to the beach area on the other side. I was the only person around, and it was so calm and peaceful I sat on the top of a picnic table and did a 25 minute meditation whilst staring at the sunset above the sea which was blissful. I took some amazing pictures of the lit up skyline on the ferry crossing back, and got a couple of pizza slices and some nibbles for the following day on the route home.

Today has been even more tiring than yesterday! I got back about an hour ago after a jam packed day exploring the breathtaking Niagara Falls. I booked a guided coach trip through viator, which was a bit pricey at 85 quid but it took all the hassle out of planning it myself. It included pick up and drop off from a hotel right near my accomodation, lunch, a ride on the boat and a couple of other stops to see points of interest (including a wine shop with free tasters). It also meant I was with a group rather than being alone, and I'll be honest, it was a welcome change to have some company and people to talk to after a few days going solo. 

I think it goes without saying that the falls were spectacular, pictures just do not do it justice! The trip was definitely money well spent; the included food wasn't just mass produced slop but a tasty three course affair of tomato soup, fish with potatoes and carrot cake, we got to skip the (very long) queue for the boat ride, and we stopped at Niagara on the Lake which was just the quaintest most cute town ever - the ice cream joint there was an additional bonus! Now excuse me whilst I collapse from exhaustion.

 

Weekly Musings

2018 - Week Twenty Eight

'If you think adventure is dangerous, try routine, it is lethal.'

(Paul Coelho)

The start of this week was SO hectic. With Aum off school for the summer holidays I am working all day, I am living at my parents whilst I renovate the new house, and I had to pack for my 3.5 week trip to America whilst my worldly possessions are dotted around in various locations in boxes and suitcases. 



Now I realise how most of these are very much first world problems. I am lucky that 'full time employment' is usually less than 20 hours a week with a free annual transatlantic summer holiday, and that my parents pad has space for me to live in rent free; but when there are six adults and two dogs in the house all making noise, I have Aum and his three mates in the car arguing over who gets the iPad or I realise once I get back to Mum's that I have left the one thing I need to pack at the new house in Stockport twenty minutes drive away, you can forgive me if I want to scream. My track of the week above helped to calm me down at various points of meltdown.

To help take me back to my happy place I had my nails done on Tuesday, and on Wednesday I turned to one thing that aides many of life's problems, mac and cheese. This particular variety (with mozzerella and gruyere) was from The Little Deli Company in Hale, and even a connoisseur of the delicacy such as myself couldn't finish the huge portion. I took Aum and his friend there for lunch before letting them run amok (read: nicely play) in Stamford Park.

On Thursday, albeit feeling very unprepared, I trundled along to Manchester Airport for mine and Aum's trip to Chicago. Once I had waved our cases off on the conveyor belt and we were chilling in Costa with a coffee and muffin I could finally begin to get excited, as the moving and packing stress had suppressed the feeling up until then. It was a pleasant journey, I watched A Wrinkle in Time and Gemini which were both excellent - Zoe Kravitz is my current girl crush - and we had mac and cheese and veggie curry pasties as the 'dreaded' plane food. I've actually always really liked meals on planes, and I find the vegetarian options are so much better than the meat versions nowadays.  

We were tired by the time we reached the apartment we are staying in in the Wicker Park neighbourhood, so I didn't fully take in my surroundings initially. It is gorgeously decorated, modern but with some cute country style touches (including a picture perfect wooden verandah with a rocking chair) and although jet lag woke me up fairly early on Friday, the bed was so comfy I lounged with a coffee in it until mid morning before getting ready to go out. We walked onto the main street just around the corner and went to Kanela Breakfast Club for food, which I had found on Trip Advisor. The menu was incredible! I had the lemon blueberry pancakes with honey butter, and Aum chose their signature French toast (challah bread with lemon creme fraiche and apricot jam) with a side of bacon.

The next item on the agenda was tackling the 'L', Chicago's metro system. After a while deciphering the machines, we purchased the equivalent of an Oyster card and hopped on a tram into the centre for a wander around. It is such a vibrant city! We spent a couple of hours soaking up the atmosphere and sunshine, ending with a walk to Navy Pier which has shops, restaurants and a beautiful botanical style garden inside, and a fairground on the pier with fab views across Lake Michigan. We then headed back to our digs for some downtime before going out for tea, as the time difference was starting to have an impact.

We decided to stay local for food that evening at a Mexican place called Antique Taco, a fastfood/ restaurant hybrid a bit like Nandos. Wicker Park where we are staying is definitely the hipster area of Chicago; full of vintage shops, vinyl stores and real ale joints, it is a Northern Quarterer's dream. Antique Taco was relaxed but had a good buzz for a Friday evening, and the crab and shrimp flautas (flute shaped deep fried tortillas with filling) were divine. I also gave a rosemary margarita a try, but it was a bit too floral for my taste if i'm honest, I'll stick to the classic!

Yesterday was another jam packed day. We had brekkie at home and then headed to an Irish bar called Fado to watch the England match before grabbing some Stan's Donuts (dear LORD they are the best!) to keep us going. Then we caught the L and took a trip 103 floors up to the Skydeck of Willis Tower. I don't have an issue with heights normally, but standing on a transparent glass floor 1,353 feet up made me feel slightly sick, so I didn't spend too long on there. The views of the city, lake and skyline were worth a few moments of queasiness though, and Aum took delight in teasing me for the rest of the day. We picked up a traditional Chicago deep dish pizza from Lou Malnati's on the walk home to share whilst getting ready, as we had booked onto an architecture cruise for that night.

The cruise started at 9pm, and lasted for 90 minutes travelling along the river. The whole city was lit up against the sky, and we got hot chocolates and listened to the tour guide tell us all about the history of the place and its buildings, ending in a spectacular firework display at the mouth of Lake Michigan. It was like being on a school trip, but a bloody cool one!

 Today is the day Aum started his summer camp, Summer Institute for the Gifted (SIG) at Chicago University. It is held at different academic institutes all across the US every year, and this is the fifth year he has attended, but the first time where he will be staying there as a residential student. It is not for everyone, being so far away from home, but he has always been a hugely independent kid, and loves the chance to mix with other people from around the world. It certainly helps me out, as entertaining an only child for two months each summer gets increasingly difficult the older he gets (he is now eleven). I helped him to unpack and then left him to it; he wasn't even arsed about me leaving, so I am now tucked up with wine and caramel M&Ms catching up with Love Island!